DK Shower Pans

About the Hot Mopping Process.....

WHY IS HOT-MOPPING MY BEST CHOICE?

Start to finish same day usually 1-hour after completion and you can fill your pan with water for inspection!

• No delays help production time.
  
• Hot mopping provides multi-layer protection!
  
• 4 layers of asphalt and 3 layers of 15 lb. felt
  
• Offers more protection then with single ply systems.
  
• No waiting between coats as with some cold applied methods.
  
• No folds, special pieces, splicing, or glues needed at dams, corners, laps, or seams - all areas bond together to form a one piece unit.
  
• A clear advantage over pvc and other one piece liner methods.
  
• Hot-mop conforms to any shape and size with 100% integrity.
  
  

Hot-mop showerpans have been used and have proved their dependability and durability thru-out the country but especially in California, with over a 60 year track record!

Why is Hot Tar Used to Seal Your Roof? It Works!

WHAT IS INVOLVED IN MAKING MY PAN READY?

Proper blocking and backing are needed before we can mop your pan, depending on the method you have chosen for your walls.

Mud-set, denshield, hardi-backer, dura-rock, or cement backer units,(just to name a few) must over-lap the hot-mop, check your local codes for their requirements.

The following:

Shower pan requirements for Hot Mop-Quick Reference Guide is for exposed studs when hot-mopped the most common method.

Click here to view and/or print this text document.

Details are given as to what is needed for us to hot-mop your pan.

Shower pan requirements for Hot Mop-two-layer system is when the two-layer backer-board system or mud-set over solid backing is being used - click here to view and/or print this text document.

WHAT BUILDING CODES NEED TO BE MET?

Please first check your local building department for their requirements

Most areas are now requiring that:

1. All lining material must be pitched ¼ per foot to weep holes in the sub-drain by means of a smooth solidly formed sloping sub-base.

2. The membrane must extend up the side walls and rough jambs of the shower, to a point not less than 3 inches above the finished dam or threshold. It must also extend outward over the top of the rough dam and fastened to the outside of the rough dam and jamb.

3. Weep holes must be clear of obstructions

4. A water test is required (usually 24 hrs)

WHY WORRY ABOUT THE SHOWERPAN SO MUCH?

So much time and thought is put into protecting the outside of your house from water entering and for good purpose - water causes damage, sometimes extensive damage, especially in the cases of a slow leaking shower pan which can become a breeding ground for unhealthy molds and toxins that can go undetectable for months or even years. Left unchecked, slow, almost non-existent drips can cause wood to rot, drywall to crumble and molds to form. Repairs can run into thousands of dollars in repairs.

An average shower uses 25 gallons of water. That's thousands of gallons a year! Water penetrates the shower (especially were the floor meets the wall) and reaches your showerpan liner to drain to the weep holes at the drain. If you are lucky enough to have a hot mopped shower pan liner then you don't have to worry.

Water in - water out; a tried and true system.

That liner is your best defense against water intrusion that can damage your house. Even the smallest leak over time can cause major problems. Let DKSHOWERPANS give you the ultimate protection - for your home as well as for construction jobs.

Quality product and service - a proven track record (over 40,000 pans completed from 2005 to 2007) you will receive that and more.

A Couple of tips:

1. Call DK Shower Pans for great results and less hassle. DK will apply the hot tar and felt for (3) layers together on their knees. Not just dumped on the floor. Average cost should be around $200.

2. Watch the weep holes. If you use a two part plastic drain, the weep holes are on the side of the flange and when you clamp it down, it is likely that the soft tar will build up and restrict or clog the weep holes. If you must use plastic, then use a round file and enlarge the weep holes considerably. Before you clamp down the top half, use a putty knife or a 4 in 1 tool to smooth out the area and level out the peaks. When clamping down, I'll often insert a No. 20 nail (with the head in the drain) to keep those holes open after tightening and while floating the setting bed. Remove the nails with a magnet after the setting bed is floated. Remember head toward the drain. I prefer a cast iron drain which generally have the holes on the TOP of the flange so it is impossible to clog them. Nevertheless , drill those out, too.

3. Goose the Pre-Slope. Quarter inch per foot is standard and the minimum. There is certainly no harm in 3/8ths of an inch per foot. An aggressive pre-slope will do wonders for you.

3. Go 2-6 inches above the highest part of the curb. Slather that tar all the way up the walls to a point about 4 inches above the curb. This includes the corners and the jamb.

4. Shim Out CBU. If you are using backerboard on the walls, like I do, shim the CBU out with quarter inch lathe and remember no nails below the hot mop, so I like to have a full sheet all the way to just above the hot mop (about a quarter of an inch above it) and use the nails above the hot mop to hold up the CBU and the setting bed will lock the CBU in. Smear some thinset over the hot mop along the walls to take up any slack in the space.

5. On the floor, Float Deck Mud for the Setting Bed. Before floating it out cover the weep holes with gravel, tile spacer or a specialized plastic disk thingy made by Nobel.

6. For the Curb, Float Wall Float (Deck Mud with a tad extra lime) about a half inch thick over diamond lathe.

 

DKSHOWERPANS FOR YOUR HOT TAR MOPPING NEEDS

You can count on it!!