Scroll down or click here to see pictures of properly prepared showers.

"PREPARATION GUIDE FOR SHOWER PANS”

Standard construction
courtesy of DK Shower Pans, Inc

• All walls need to be blocked a minimum of 10” high from the pan floor. This blocking needs to be solid, 2- 2x6s stacked on edge, with no gaps between the pieces, or a single 2x10 works well, where plumbing or other constraints prohibits the use of 2x blocking, plywood or other sheeting can be used. Where blocking cannot be installed due to obstructions in the bay, sheet metal backing can be used, 20 gauge is best. We carry a supply of metal backing if needed.
  
  
• Benches or shower seats. Both the face and top need to be fully sheeted or blocked and have vertical backing were the seat face meets the walls, this needs to be a minimum of 3-1/2”. Where the bench top meets the wall 5-1/2” is the minimum blocking requirement here.
  
  
• Dams need to be a minimum of 2” above the height of the drain. This usually consists of 3- 2x4’s (or better) stacked flat or be made of brick, grouted block, poured curb, or be a recessed pan.
  
  
• Drains need to be 2-piece and installed to achieve the minimum amount or movement on wood sub-floors. Drains on slab need to be level, with sub-base flush or on slab, access hole to be back- filled with-in 1/2” of slab.
  
  
• On firewalls and /or shear walls we can hot mop to either the drywall or shear material which serves’ as adequate backing.
  
  

Commercial construction

• Steel studs need to have 10” of heavy gauge sheet metal fasten to them to provide backing from the pan floor up.
  
  
• Dams/curbs need to be solid with no gaps between top and bottom plate. Surface applied metal works here also.
  
  
• If applicable, surface applied drywall or other board material can be used for backing as long as the mop is going to be lapped by a second layer of tile backing material. Firewalls, sound-proofing, benches and seats and shear wall are a few circumstances where this can be used.
  
  

"PREPARATION FOR ADA OR WALK-IN SHOWERS"

• The drain must be lower than the floor area outside of the shower. The shower floor needs to recessed, weather on wood or concrete, 3” is minimum requirement for a standard size shower(check your local codes) and the use of a adjustable drain is recommended. There must be a smooth transition between the recessed floor and wall framing above, fur out or cut back as needed. Backing needs to be up 10” from the pan floor.
  
  
• The recess serves as your dam/curb and will need to be mopped a minimum of 4” on to upper surface floor.
  
  

Thank you for taking the time to learn about hot mop preparations. DK Shower Pans

WE INSTALL DRAINS

***in order for us to install a drain for you there can be no coupling or p-trap connection with-in 3” of the floor. You must have a 2” pipe stubbed up a minimum of 3” above floor. On concrete floors 2” to 3” clear area is needed all around the stub up! We can only install the drains that we supply.

MORE DETAILS FOR “MAKING YOUR PAN READY”

BACKING FOR WOOD FRAMING

All walls need to be blocked between each stud a minimum of 10” high from the pan floor. This blocking needs to be solid, 2- 2x6s stacked on edge with no gaps between, a single 2x10 or any size lumber can be used as long as the finished height is at least 10” off the floor with no major gaps between the pieces used, where plumbing or other constraints prohibits the use of 2x blocking, plywood or other sheeting should be used. Any material used needs to securely fasten to the studs. Where blocking cannot be installed due to obstructions in the bay, sheet metal backing can be used, heavy gauges are best. We carry a supply of sheet metal backing as needed for your convenience.

OTHER BACKING APPLICATIONS:

Hot mopping also adheres to block, concrete walls, sheet metal, drywall, hardi backer, cement backer boards, denshield and other materials, all can serve as backing if used properly if they are to be covered with a second layer of tile backing material.

DAMS:

Dams should be a minimum of 2” above the height of the drain cap. This usually consists of 2x4’s stacked flat, brick, poured curb, or the pan is recessed. The standard height of the dam is 4-1/2" but can be adjusted for special needs consult your local codes before proceeding with the hot mop.

TUB AND PONY WALLS

When you have a your tub and shower laid out next to each other the dividing wall and/or ledge should be hot mopped. That wall needs to be faced with sheathing or filled between the studs from bottom plate to top with solid material. If the tub is lower than the top of the dividing wall then the portion facing the tub should be blocked and can be mopped down to the tub deck.

TUB LEDGES

When the tub deck is the same level as the dividing wall, have the tub deck sheathing and all framing installed and we will mop onto the deck at least 6” for the protection that is needed here.

BENCHES & SEATS

Benches and/or shower seats add comfort and beauty to your shower. These areas need to be fully sheeted or blocked on the face and top and have vertical backing at all walls were the seat face meets the shower walls, this needs to be a minimum of 3-1/2”. Where the bench top meets the wall 5-1/2” is the minimum blocking requirement here.

Benches and/or shower seats can also be made of concrete and/or block. If installed after the mop, make sure that the walls were the bench will meet the wall have solid backing that extends a minimum of 8” above the finished height of your bench.

With free-floating benches the walls below the bench area need to solidly backed/blocked up to the bench before the mop is applied.

SOAP NICHES:

Niches need to have solid backs and solid 3” jambs, sill and header, any shape can be mopped! ROMAN TUBS

These have a few restrictions that must be followed; must have a 2” drain with no overflow. If made of wood it needs to solid sheeted and have backing 6” high on any walls surrounding the tub.

PREPARATIONS FOR DRAINS

Standard shower drain requirements call for a 2” waste line size and are 2-piece bolt together type. These may be made of a variety of materials, ABS, cast iron, etc. some also may have an adjustable height drain screen. All drains need to be installed to achieve the minimum amount or movement. On wood sub-floors secure with straps to prevent up and down movement and do not cut an oversize hole in sub-floor this prevents side to side movement. Drains on slab need to be level, with sub-base level or at slab height and back-fill the access hole to with-in ½” of floor.

SPECIALTY DRAINS

Pre-made troughs are available and some can be hot-mopped in place. Please call with manufactures name and we can verify if your product can be used.

Thunder-bird deck drains and custom built copper sluice and or trough drains can also be mopped-in, depending on local codes.

If you have a unique situation please give us a call. 1.866.305.4980

TROUGH DRAINS:

When making your own trough the area where the drain will be needs to be recessed, a standard drain can be used, and the recess should be of significant depth that the drain top is at the height of your trough bottom. This applies to either wood or concrete sub-floors, a minimum of 2” from drain flange edge to recess should be maintained. 8” wide X 6” deep X length needed is a standard formula.

PREPARATION FOR DECKS & STAIRS

Deck finishes that are going to be tile, stone or other hard surface over a dry-packed mortar base can be hot-mopped. Certain requirements need to be met to insure a top quality job.

Decks must be sloped to be able to drain off any water. Many methods where the water must drain too are used, these include 2-piece drains, thunder-bird flange drains, scuppers, over the edge, or a combination of any of these.

Wood deck pitch needs to be done in the framing stage using the standard ¼” per foot slope. Also any doors that lead on to the deck need to be high enough above the finished height of deck as not to be “buried”, by the float coat and finish material, this means that the deck rough-in height is recessed at any exit onto the deck. In some cases where the interior floor is also going to be elevated, sill plate(s) can be left in place or added to give the necessary heights needed. Flashings and drip edges and all metal work must be correctly installed to insure a watertight deck for years to come. 

SHEET METAL

Because sheet metal is installed first, it is critical to the complete tile assembly. Setting up the proper elevations for the full tile assembly should be done prior to any metal installation. Sheet metal should be installed at all deck transitions. Since the sheet metal contractors are not familiar with the waterproofing requirements nor are they responsible for the tile elevations, it is critical that they be given direction. All of these transition details can be prefabricated prior to installation in the field. The architect will usually specify soldered corners on all prefabricated items.

The waterproofing manufacturers, since they do not sell nor do they warrant the metal, require that the installation at least follow SMACNA (California Association of Sheet Metal and Air Condition Contractors, National Association) guidelines. For our applications on an exterior deck, the nailing patterns are minimum 3in. on center in a staggered pattern with a minimum 4 in. overlap between metal pieces. All overlap joints must have sealant (a single component urethane is recommended) between the laps.

The metal laps should always follow the same lapping procedure as you would use with sheathing membranes on walls. Since proper decks have the slope built into the framing you want to start at the lower end and lap over the lower pieces as you would do with shingles.

When deciding how large the prefabricated items should be, the following rules of thumb should be followed. The horizontal legs on the deck should always be at least 4 inches. Manufactures of waterproofing materials recommend at least 4 inches of metal exposed for an attachment. The vertical leg should be a minimum of 6 inches up the wall. Many of the failures found in new construction are because there was very little overlap at the sheathing paper to flashing detail.

All too often the stucco contractor, without direction, has set his weep screed too low which causes the tile contractor to compromise his minimum mortar bed thickness or his slope to drain. A two piece deck to wall metal is preferred over a one piece flashing detail because of its flexibility with regard to elevation. A one piece deck to wall has the stucco termination built in at a fixed distance off the deck. Once this one piece is set, the elevation maximum is now set because you cannot float any higher than the stucco termination.

Actually, it can be floated higher and we see this done all too often. If you did float higher than the stucco termination the water would have no way of exiting the stucco and would be forced to exit the stucco and into the wall. If the L flashing or deck to wall flashing, the first component of a two piece flashing system, is used, the tile setter can float his mortar bed or mark his elevation so that the stucco contractor can set his weep screed after the proper elevations have been set. It is also a good idea to let the stucco contractor know not to put the weep screed to close to the deck as this will cause you a problem when you are caulking your expansion joint at the perimeter.

The industry has found many leaks occurring where a deck to wall flashing and drip edge termination begins. This piece is designed to eliminate any lapping or corner to stucco interface weaknesses. It allows for plenty of room for not only the drip edge and deck to wall to overlap but for the stucco or siding lapping over as well.

The post collar is designed so the post can be kerf cut to accept a short flange placed into the cut and caulked. This design was created to minimize the chance of water getting between the metal and the post.

Door openings are the single greatest source of failures. Doors are not designed to be waterproof and they are not warranted as such. This door saddle is designed to prevent water intrusion regardless of the door system.

The following are the most common sheet metal details found on exterior deck applications:
Outside corner, inside corner, overflow and standard scuppers, standard drip edge, reverse drip edge, drip to wall termination, post collars, deck to wall, 1 or more piece door saddle or pan

Stairs need to have deck to wall, or drip edge depending on stairs style on both the tread and riser.

Remember that we only mop on to the metal, and only up to the transition edge, we do not roll up or over.

All laps must be caulked or soldered and lapped a minimum of 4”.